Lunchin' at Momofuku Ssam Bar

As the cult of David Chang continues to grow, I thought I would revisit the runt of the Momofuku litter, Momofuku Ssam Bar. I used to frequent Momofuku Ssam Bar in its infancy, when the concept behind it was that of a burrito bar, the Korean answer to Baja Fresh. And god, did I love it. It was inexpensive and the Asian-inspired burritos filled with kimchi, red bean paste, and chicken were things of genius. Unfortunately, Momofuku Ssam Bar as a burrito joint didn't find much favor with the East Village locals, so it was gradually transformed into the restaurant it is today. And so, I found myself eating lunch there on a recent rainy Wednesday afternoon, making my own determination as to whether change is good.

Momofuku Ssam Bar is all dark wood, low slung tables, and stools with an open kitchen peeking out onto the dining room. Lunch time is quiet for the Ssam Bar, but it can get pretty boisterous at night. All the dishes are meant to be shared, so they come out rather haphazardly, which I don't mind because it allows you to sneak bites of your companion's food and try even more dishes.

The first dish we sampled was a cured hamachi plated with an edamame horseradish puree. The fish was fresh enough but the edamame horseradish puree lacked any punch whatsoever, so instead of a creatively composed dish, you had a simple plate of sashimi. A bit of a letdown as I have come to expect more from Mr. Chang.

The next dish to emerge from the kitchen is quite often the highlight to any visit to a Momofuku establishment: the steamed buns filled with unctuous pork belly, hoisin sauce, scallions, and pickled cucumbers. The highest compliment I can pay these delicious little buns is that I inevitably share an order (which consists of two buns) and always end up hating whoever I am sharing the dish with because I don't get seconds. The pork belly is so wonderfully fatty and the fluffy buns perfectly soak up the pork fat and hoisin sauce. Truly delicious. Just don't say I didn't warn you if you share an order of pork buns and have strange feelings of hatred towards your companion. Its not you, it's the buns.

On the heels of the heavenly steamed pork buns came a rather disappointing dish. The buttermilk panna cotta salad with microgreens, pine nuts, and a white miso-soy broth just completely missed the mark. The buttermilk panna cotta seemed unsure as to how salty or sour it wanted to be leaving my tastebuds similarly confused. The pine nuts also could have spent some time toasting to add some much needed crunch to the dish. Really, the only thing that saved this 'salad' from being an unmitigated failure was that the white miso-soy broth was almost perfect with just the right hint of salinity and tangy-ness. That broth would have been better served standing alone.

Luckily, we finished the meal on a high note when a plate of spicy rice cakes, pork sausage, chinese broccoli, and crispy shallots arrived to the table. The spicy rice cakes had the consistency of plump little gnocchi with a pleasing crunch to the exterior, while the ground sausage was sufficiently spicy to make you sweat, which I find welcome. A hearty squeeze of lime to add some acidity would have truly made the dish perfect, but nevertheless, this dish showed the creativity and skill that a David Chang-inspired kitchen should always aspire to.

It may be a function of how much I love Momofuku Noodle Bar and the high expectations I have for a David Chang-led establishment, but my lunch time repast at Momofuku Ssam Bar left me disappointed. Although the steamed pork buns and spicy rice cakes deserve better, the overall experience only merited 1 star. While Momofuku Noodle Bar has noticeably improved since it moved to a new location, I fear that the Ssam Bar has lost its way. Obviously, David Chang knows what he is doing conceptually, but more attention needs to be paid to the food on the plate. You can definitely eat well at Ssam Bar if you order carefully enough, but ultimately, I would suggest heading to Momofuku Noodle Bar if you really want to see David Chang shine.

One Star: Good Concept, Poor Execution (pretty annoying considering Mr. Chang should know better)

Momofuku Ssam Bar
207 Second Avenue, corner of 13th St. and 2nd Ave.
Cost: Lunch for 2 $60 (excluding tip)
Highlights: Steamed pork buns; spicy rice cakes with pork sausage, chinese broccoli, and crispy shallots
Service: The surprisingly knowledgeable and competent hipster-ish waitstaff does an admirable job