Postcard from San Sebastian

Michelin stars literally abound in the Basque countryside surrounding San Sebastian. If you are visiting, with cash to burn, and are into molecular gastronomy, by all means check out Arzak and Mugaritz. For those of middling means, however, I have compiled a list of more moderately priced restaurants in San Sebastian’s Old Quarter that truly wowed me.

Restaurante Urepel (Plaza Slamanca 3, 011.31.943424040)

This restaurant specializes in traditional Basque cuisine presented in a dining room straight from the gilded age of the eighties. Regardless, the fish is fresh as can be and a lovely salad of red vegetables took advantage of the sea’s bounty with grilled mackerel, tuna, anchovies and bluefish rising in a tower above the greens. Pleasing to the eye as well as to the palate. On our way to San Sebastian, the countryside was full of snowy white wooled lamb, so of course that's what we ordered. And sure enough, the roast lamb dish which consisted of lamb loin skewers with roast mushrooms, as well as lamb chops braised in honey and cider, was perfectly seasoned and made me Grumpy no more. At least until the next annoyance cropped up. Dinner for two with wine, €110.

Morgan Jatetxea (Narrika 7, 011.31.943.424661)

Morgan’s menu del dia is the steal of the century and, on the day we visited, the restaurant was filled with locals. Served at lunch, this three course meal will only set you back €17. Now if the food was bad, I wouldn’t care if the set menu was being given away. But serving traditional Basque dishes such as calamari stewed in its own ink with rice alongside international favorites such as lamb tagine somehow works in Morgan’s eclectic atmosphere. And most importantly, the food was tasty. One warning, the appetitizer, main course, and dessert that make up the menu del dia are enough food to feed a small army. Be prepared. Lunch for two with wine, €34.

Kokotxa Restaurante (Campanario 11, 011.34.943.421904)

Bright lights and uber-modern furnishings served as the backdrop to some of the most artistically plated and tastiest food I have had in ages. Course after course struggled to serve two masters – inventiveness and simplicity. My taste buds emerged victorious. The first course of fried artichokes with salt-water crayfish atop sweet potato puree was the best first course I had in all of Spain. The balance of the crayfish’ sweetness and the balsamic sauce was sensational. Truly delicious. Another standout dish was the red mullet fillets served with conch pieces and tomato tarter. So fresh and the dish was so evocative of the ocean that I fell in like with it. (Let’s not get crazy and LOVE a fish). Dinner for two with wine, €115.

One final note: before you leave San Sebastian, you MUST do a pintxos (tapas) crawl from bar to bar trying different snacks. My friend and I gorged ourselves on pintxos and wine the entire night and still only managed to spend upwards of €50. If you just wander around the old town in San Sebastian, you’ll find plenty of lively pintxo bars to pop into. However, one place not to be missed is Ganbara (San Jeronomino 21, 011.31.943422575), which was easily the most refined and elegant of the bunch. If you go to Ganbara, you must order, and this is a command, una surtido setas (a mixed plate of grilled wild mushrooms) and una pulpo gallego (boiled octopus with a spicy paprika sauce). You will thank me.

Postcard from Madrid

Madrilenos live a charmed life—not only do they get to enjoy my favorite Spanish tradition, the splendid afternoon siesta, but the best restaurants in the Spanish capital rival those of Manhattan. From a simple rustic tavern to a temple of molecular gastronomy, here are my best bets for your next trip to Madrid:

Posada de la Villa (Cava Baja 9, 011.34.91.2661.860)

If you go before ten in the evening, be prepared to be surrounded by tourists, which made me none too happy. Nonetheless, there is one big reason to go here: the leg of lamb for two. Roasted in a giant brick fireplace on the second floor, this hunk of meat would be a revelation for most Americans who are used to the foul-tasting mutton masquerading as lamb offered at plenty of places in Manhattan. The crispy skin and fork-tender meat pleased me to no end. Dinner for two, 80 euros.

O’Pazo (Reina Mercedes 20, 011.34.91.553.23.33)

If you love fish, then you must visit O’Pazo. Incredibly fresh seafood in a modern space, order the gambas riojas if they have them and be prepared to be blown away by the sweetness of these red shrimp, prepared simply on the grill and seasoned with sea salt and lemon. Also, don’t miss the merluza a la horno (baked hake)—the poor little hake must have been swimming the night before, it was so fresh, and the dish’s perfectly acidic lemon sauce complemented the flaky flesh admirably. Easily my best meal in Madrid and I left with a smile on my face even after seeing the check. Dinner for two, 130 euros.

La Broche (Miguel Angel 29-31, 011.34.91.399.34.27)

In the interest of full disclosure, molecular gastronomy is usually not my thing. I’d rather devour some paella than fiddle with a plate of foams and gêlées (speaking of which, can someone please tell me why you can’t get a good, or even a decent, paella in Madrid? I know its Valencia’s specialty, but come on now, Madrid, you are better than that.) That being said, La Broche represents the best of the molecular gastronomic movement, while still showing restraint and respect for the ingredients. The kitchen sends out clever re-interpretations of traditional Spanish dishes, such as boiled octopus or grilled anchovies, which are both fanciful and, most importantly, tasty. You might not want to eat like this every night, but La Broche pleases both your mind and your taste buds. Dinner for two, 140 euros.

Espana

I am off for a ten day jaunt to Madrid and San Sebastian, so although you won't be getting NYC dining reviews from me while I am gone, check back soon for my postcard reviews from abroad...Have a great Memorial Day weekend.