Scarpetta: A Worthy Challenger to the Throne

Without ever having set foot in Scarpetta, I already had formed an opinion – I was primed to hate it. On the surface, it seems to conform to the stereotype of a Meatpacking restaurant that is surrounded by entirely too much undeserved hype, with snooty staff and underwhelming food to match. However, besides Scarpetta’s fringe Meatpacking address, which unfortunately does draw an unsavory "too cool for school" crowd, this is a serious restaurant with aspirations to knock Babbo off its throne as king of Italian dining in NYC.

Situated in an old Greek Revival townhouse, Scarpetta’s main dining room is charmingly decorated. Antiqued mirrors hang on the walls via Hermes-orange straps, angled just right to bathe the room in light coming through the large glass skylight. But Scarpetta is much more than just a pretty face. Although model-filled clubs sit only a few blocks away, counting calories at Scarpetta would be an unmitigated disaster. The breadbasket arrives and is filled with delicious choices, the best being a focaccia-type bread stuffed with ham and cheese that I could not stop devouring. The quality of the bread was a harbinger of the delights to come.

We chose to begin our meal with the fritto misto as an early test for the kitchen. Scarpetta passed with flying colors. The calamari and zucchini were cut matchstick thin and although fried, remained light. An obviously welcome culinary miracle. Flecks of fried garlic, rosemary, and parsley were scattered throughout and added a welcome depth of flavor that elevated the dish.

On to the course that makes Italian restaurants my preferred dining destination: pasta. My dining partner and I shared the black maccheroni with calamari, lobster, and sea urchin and the raviolini with zucchini flowers, asparagus, and ricotta. Although the raviolini were creamy and undeniably tasty, the black maccheroni would merit return visits all by itself. The brininess of the squid-ink pasta brought to mind pleasant memories of summers at the beach; truly a masterful evocation of the ocean’s bounty.









Our final savory dish was the Sicilian-spiced duck breast, accompanied by carrots, onions, and a potato cake. After the kitchen’s deft hand with the pastas, I was not at all surprised to see that the duck was perfectly cooked with the fat rendered to the point where the skin was nicely crisped and the lovely red wine reduction sauce accented the sweetness of the duck flawlessly. Another sparkling display of culinary skill by the kitchen.

The richness of our meal called for something subtly sweet to end the meal. The coconut panna cotta we ordered was the perfect foil to all the gluttony that preceded. Clean and fresh, this dessert brought a great meal to a happy close.

Scarpetta is the type of fine dining experience that most pleases me. Not overly fussy, but with great attention to detail, both in terms of ingredients and execution, Scarpetta shockingly merits much of the hype surrounding it. Although a bit pricey, I would be happy to return time and again, perhaps just perched at the bar for a bowl of pasta and a glass of barolo. Scarpetta is exactly the 4 star type of place that sets NYC apart and is an experience often ruined in other cities by unneeded pretentiousness and preciousness. Watch out, Babbo.

4 stars: One of the Reasons to Never Leave NYC

Scarpetta
355 W. 14th St. (near 9th Avenue)
Cost: $190 for 2 (including tax and tip)
Highlights: black maccheroni with seafood; Sicilian spiced duck breast
Service: The hostesses need courses in warmth and hospitality, but the wait staff was professional and on the ball. Credit should also be given to the charming sommelier who was more than happy to guide us to some mid-priced choices. Kudos for not pushing your most expensive bottle of wine up front.