Postcard from Madrid

Madrilenos live a charmed life—not only do they get to enjoy my favorite Spanish tradition, the splendid afternoon siesta, but the best restaurants in the Spanish capital rival those of Manhattan. From a simple rustic tavern to a temple of molecular gastronomy, here are my best bets for your next trip to Madrid:

Posada de la Villa (Cava Baja 9, 011.34.91.2661.860)

If you go before ten in the evening, be prepared to be surrounded by tourists, which made me none too happy. Nonetheless, there is one big reason to go here: the leg of lamb for two. Roasted in a giant brick fireplace on the second floor, this hunk of meat would be a revelation for most Americans who are used to the foul-tasting mutton masquerading as lamb offered at plenty of places in Manhattan. The crispy skin and fork-tender meat pleased me to no end. Dinner for two, 80 euros.

O’Pazo (Reina Mercedes 20, 011.34.91.553.23.33)

If you love fish, then you must visit O’Pazo. Incredibly fresh seafood in a modern space, order the gambas riojas if they have them and be prepared to be blown away by the sweetness of these red shrimp, prepared simply on the grill and seasoned with sea salt and lemon. Also, don’t miss the merluza a la horno (baked hake)—the poor little hake must have been swimming the night before, it was so fresh, and the dish’s perfectly acidic lemon sauce complemented the flaky flesh admirably. Easily my best meal in Madrid and I left with a smile on my face even after seeing the check. Dinner for two, 130 euros.

La Broche (Miguel Angel 29-31, 011.34.91.399.34.27)

In the interest of full disclosure, molecular gastronomy is usually not my thing. I’d rather devour some paella than fiddle with a plate of foams and gêlées (speaking of which, can someone please tell me why you can’t get a good, or even a decent, paella in Madrid? I know its Valencia’s specialty, but come on now, Madrid, you are better than that.) That being said, La Broche represents the best of the molecular gastronomic movement, while still showing restraint and respect for the ingredients. The kitchen sends out clever re-interpretations of traditional Spanish dishes, such as boiled octopus or grilled anchovies, which are both fanciful and, most importantly, tasty. You might not want to eat like this every night, but La Broche pleases both your mind and your taste buds. Dinner for two, 140 euros.

Espana

I am off for a ten day jaunt to Madrid and San Sebastian, so although you won't be getting NYC dining reviews from me while I am gone, check back soon for my postcard reviews from abroad...Have a great Memorial Day weekend.

Sunday Supper at Irving Mill

Our first stop on my critical tour of the NYC dining scene is the Sunday Supper special at Irving Mill in Gramercy, where my sister and I met for dinner. I will say that one benefit the Great Depression Part Deux has brought us New Yorkers is great restaurant deals. I am not talking about pedestrian drink or early bird specials that some restaurants try to foist on their patrons; if you are going to implement a special menu to drive traffic to your establishment during this economic maelstrom, be creative and come up with a thoughtful, coherent theme befitting the tenor of your restaurant. Irving Mill's Sunday Supper, to its credit, does just that.

The menu, which is served family-style, consists of both a salad and a soup, an entree plenty large enough to be shared by 2 or 3 people, and individual desserts for a quite reasonable $60. The salad, soup and dessert courses are preset, so Sunday Supper might not appeal to picky eaters. As for the entree, on this night, we could choose between a whole chicken with rapini and potato salad; a whole loup de mer with red quinoa and a preserved lime and soybean puree; or a 32 oz ribeye with creamed black kale and trumpet mushrooms. Being Mediterranean ourselves, we went with the whole loup de mer. You can also choose to have the fish deboned for you, so if you are squeamish, no need to fear being presented with the fish's head. The family-style menu complements the farmhouse chic decor, making you feel as if you are visiting a hedge fund buddy's weekend house upstate (although that guy's house is probably for sale now; oh well). Oddly enough, although enjoyable, the soundtrack to our meal ranged from John Legend to Run DMC to Fall Out Boy. So I guess its a pretty hip farmhouse you are visiting.

Our meal started with a relatively simple escarole and frisee salad dressed with olive oil and lemon and topped with parmesan slivers and a rabbit consomme with spicy rabbit sausage, gnocchi, and braised escarole. I will say the parmesan was the standout part of the salad; greens, I can live without, although it was a nice rustic and clean start to the meal. On the other hand, the soup, served in a charming large tureen, was simply delicious. I am a sucker for Bugs Bunny and will pretty much order rabbit if its on a menu, so I was pleased. The broth struck a tasty salty/spicy balance and the rabbit sausage hit the mark. The one disappointing aspect was the mushy gnocchi which fell apart as they soaked up the broth.
Our whole loup de mer entree followed shortly thereafter, served with toasted red quinoa atop a preserved lime and soybean puree. The kitchen did justice by the loup de mer, as the fish was juicy and redolent of herbs, while the skin was nicely charred. I just wish the lime/soybean puree had more acidity as that would have contrasted nicely with the fish and elevated the dish. Although the whole fish was just what we were in the mood for, I do have to say that the whole chicken served to the adjacent table both looked and smelled delicious. Maybe next time!

All that was left was dessert, which is quite often my favorite course. Capping off Sunday Supper were charming little chocolate cupcakes, covered in a vanilla glaze, which unfortunately looked better than they tasted. The cupcake itself was a bit dry, although my sister's cupcake was quite a bit more moist than mine. Lucky her. Unfortunately for Irving Mill, 1 out of 2 doesn't quite cut it in my book.

Although the kitchen's concentration lapsed on occasion, Irving Mill deserves a solid 2 stars. The restaurant is ambitious enough and the rustic atmosphere complements the food nicely. I would be more than happy to venture back if I was in the neighborhood and so should you.

Two Stars: Enjoyable Neighborhood Spot Worthy of a Repeat Visit

Irving Mill
116 East 16th St. between Irving Place and Park Avenue South
Cost: Dinner for 2 with drinks $75 (excluding tip); the Sunday Supper Special can be split amongst 2 or 3 for the same price
Highlights: rabbit consomme; loup de mer for two; 2 for 1 Dale's Pale Ale beer can special ($6)
Service: The waitress was nice enough, but service lacked a certain polish

The Grumpy Scale...

Every critic needs a rating system that readers can identify with and intuitively use when deciding on a restaurant. So obviously before I dive in and start giving you my restaurant reviews, let me introduce you to what I have dubbed the "Grumpy Scale."

I really enjoy the simplicity of a 4 star rating system, so that's what I am going with. I can't stand half stars or quarter stars--just make a decision already and stick with it! There will be no hedging of bets here, you'll immediately know if a restaurant is worth your time and effort. My stars, however, are going to mean something a bit more than good, great, exemplary, or any other such empty adjective critics like to throw about. My stars are designed to guide you straight to the right restaurant for your mood and the occasion.

So without further ado, say hello to the "Grumpy Scale":

0 Stars: I'll never get those 90 mins. of my life back
1 Star: Good Concept, Poor Execution (note that this annoys me to no end)
2 Stars: Enjoyable Neighborhood Spot Worthy of a Repeat Visit
3 stars: Worth Traveling Above 14th Street For
4 stars: One of the Reasons to Never Leave NYC

There you go; now stay tuned for my FIRST review. Ohhh, so exciting (dripping sarcasm).

Frank Bruni of the New York Times Calls It a Day

So what do you say when one of the most divisive restaurant reviewers in New York Times history puts down his pen and leaves his post as restaurant critic at the Gray Lady?

Many people in the industry disliked Mr. Frank Bruni and thought he should spend more time opining on the food on his plate and less on witty wordplay and clever similes in his reviews. But I for one often found myself nodding in agreement reading his reviews and tended to agree with his riffs on the food scene here in NYC. NYC is a tough place to be successful as a restaurateur and food is only one component to being a success (albeit the most important). Mr. Bruni seemed to get that and he often surprised with his warm reviews of smaller, neighborhood-y establishments. He recognized that going out to eat is about spending time with friends, particularly in NYC, with our bite-sized apartments, and that simple, focused dishes and a welcome atmosphere could make up for failings of imagination and verve. No wonder he loved the warm Italian neighborhood spots that he reviewed positively over the years such as Perbacco and Spigolo.

Restaurant critics have an intimate relationship with their readers--as a reader you have to trust your critic and if he repeatedly lets you down or you disagree with his palate, you move on. Over the years, once that trust is established, you can read between your favorite restaurant critic's lines and know his likes and dislikes and how they match up to yours. Mr. Bruni and I got along and I will be sad to see him go.

And naturally, with such a prestigious post in the restaurant world vacant, everyone has an opinion on who will fill the position next. Obviously, newspapers have been trying to seem hip and savvy recently, so some are calling for a prominent foodie blogger to be tapped as the next critic. No, thank you, I'll pass on that. Not only do you need somebody with a great palate who is highly opinionated, you also need somebody who can write. It is the NY Times after all. Adam Platt of New York Magazine seems to fit that bill and I think would be an intriguing choice. Even Robert Sietsema of the Village Voice could be amusing, although he may be too downtown for the NY Times readers. Nevertheless, whoever it is will have big shoes to fill.

Don't fret too much, we still have four more months of Bruni to enjoy. I will definitely be curious to see what restaurants he has on tap for his farewell tour...perhaps, he finally cracked the Momofuku Ko code or he pays a visit to Babbo again which was his first review. I just hope he goes out with a BANG.

Introducing your Not-So-Friendly Food Critic

Before anyone even thinks of listening to my opinion about the dining scene in NYC, I thought I should introduce myself. I am a 29 year old lawyer who grew up in the restaurant business as a product of a Greek immigrant family. I have lived in the West Village for six of the last eight years, so as you will discover I have a bit of a downtown bias. I love nothing better than going out to dinner, whether it be eating alone at the bar or catching up with friends. Its so incredibly relaxing for me and always entertaining (whether for the right or wrong reasons). I just love food and I hope my passion comes across on this blog.

Some of you might be wondering why I have styled myself the "not-so-friendly" food critic or the "Grumpy Gourmand". If I was bit older, I guess I would affectionately be labeled cantankerous. Nevertheless, I lack a certain level of patience (some would say any patience) that allows others to go through their days happily oblivious to the annoyances created by the teeming populace of NYC. Naturally, I can not do so. And so, I find solace in life's simple pleasures: nicely charred octopus, a perfectly grilled veal chop, a bowl of spicy squid ink linguine with calamari, a scoop or three of gelato, etc...Those are the things that make me happy (at least relatively so) and hopefully, I can do the dirty work for you and find some great places for you to enjoy.

One more introductory piece of business: if you forced me to choose only one cuisine for the rest of my days, I'd have to go Italian. I am glad my Greek mother doesn't know how to use the internet, otherwise she would kill me. Not only do I LOVE pasta, but you also have great depth ranging from a tasty veal chop to simply grilled whole fish to rabbit cacciatore. And really, I'd be fine eating gelato three meals a day. So take that for what it is and I would definitely be curious what my readers' choice might be.

Finally, the key to the relationship between any so-called restaurant critic and his/her readers is trust. In essence, you have to calibrate your tastes and proclivities with a critic that you like to read. Only then can you really grow to trust their opinions. To that end, I have compiled a list of my favorite (or least favorite, as the case may be) restaurants below, so that you can start getting a feel of what does it for me. Here goes:

Favorite Special Occasion Dinner: Babbo (I just love the casual atmosphere and the pastas)
Most Annoying Reservation System: Babbo (really, I called at 10:01am for a reservation a month out and all you have is 6:00pm and 10:45pm. God, I hate you)
Favorite Expense Report Lunch: Jean Georges (best deal in the city--two courses $28)
Best Restaurant for Large Parties: Inoteca (the family-style prix fixe menu is a great option for birthday parties or other large gatherings)
Most Overrated: The Spotted Pig (a mob scene at all times and really there are only two yummy things on the menu--the burger and the gnudi)
Most Underrated (tie): Wallse and Spice Market
Best BBQ: Hill Country (they have Blue Bell ice cream...Case closed)
Best Date Spot: Apizz (really sketchy street on the LES but the food and atmosphere are perfect)
Best Breakfast/Brunch: Shopsin's (a bitter old man after my own heart)
Best Paella: Socarrat (there is no other competition in the city, but damn, this place is good)
Dinner that Always Hits the Spot: Momofuku Noodle Bar
Best Casual Italian: Frankies Spuntino
Best Pork Butt: Bo Ssam at Momofuku Ssam Bar (yep, it deserves its own category, its that good. And don't listen to them, 4 guys can definitely take down the whole Ssam)
Best Gelato: L'Arte de Gelato

So these restaurants are just a few of my faves; hopefully, you like what you see and if you haven't been to a place on my fave list, I promise, you will not be disappointed.

Well, that's it for now; check back often for new reviews and restaurant news from your GRUMPY GOURMAND. Ok, I am off to yell at my neighbor for pumping techno music all night long on a Wednesday night. Did I mention I love the West Village?