The menu, which is served family-style, consists of both a salad and a soup, an entree plenty large enough to be shared by 2 or 3 people, and individual desserts for a quite reasonable $60. The salad, soup and dessert courses are preset, so Sunday Supper might not appeal to picky eaters. As for the entree, on this night, we could choose between a whole chicken with rapini and potato salad; a whole loup de mer with red quinoa and a preserved lime and soybean puree; or a 32 oz ribeye with creamed black kale and trumpet mushrooms. Being Mediterranean ourselves, we went with the whole loup de mer. You can also choose to have the fish deboned for you, so if you are squeamish, no need to fear being presented with the fish's head. The family-style menu complements the farmhouse chic decor, making you feel as if you are visiting a hedge fund buddy's weekend house upstate (although that guy's house is probably for sale now; oh well). Oddly enough, although enjoyable, the soundtrack to our meal ranged from John Legend to Run DMC to Fall Out Boy. So I guess its a pretty hip farmhouse you are visiting.
Our meal started with a relatively simple escarole and frisee salad dressed with olive oil and lemon and topped with parmesan slivers and a rabbit consomme with spicy rabbit sausage, gnocchi, and braised escarole. I will say the parmesan was the standout part of the salad; greens, I can live without, although it was a nice rustic and clean start to the meal. On the other hand, the soup, served in a charming large tureen, was simply delicious. I am a sucker for Bugs Bunny and will pretty much order rabbit if its on a menu, so I was pleased. The broth struck a tasty salty/spicy balance and the rabbit sausage hit the mark. The one disappointing aspect was the mushy gnocchi which fell apart as they soaked up the broth.
Our whole loup de mer entree followed shortly thereafter, served with toasted red quinoa atop a preserved lime and soybean puree. The kitchen did justice by the loup de mer, as the fish was juicy and redolent of herbs, while the skin was nicely charred. I just wish the lime/soybean puree had more acidity as that would have contrasted nicely with the fish and elevated the dish. Although the whole fish was just what we were in the mood for, I do have to say that the whole chicken served to the adjacent table both looked and smelled delicious. Maybe next time!
All that was left was dessert, which is quite often my favorite course. Capping off Sunday Supper were charming little chocolate cupcakes, covered in a vanilla glaze, which unfortunately looked better than they tasted. The cupcake itself was a bit dry, although my sister's cupcake was quite a bit more moist than mine. Lucky her. Unfortunately for Irving Mill, 1 out of 2 doesn't quite cut it in my book.
Although the kitchen's concentration lapsed on occasion, Irving Mill deserves a solid 2 stars. The restaurant is ambitious enough and the rustic atmosphere complements the food nicely. I would be more than happy to venture back if I was in the neighborhood and so should you.
Two Stars: Enjoyable Neighborhood Spot Worthy of a Repeat Visit
Irving Mill
116 East 16th St. between Irving Place and Park Avenue South
Cost: Dinner for 2 with drinks $75 (excluding tip); the Sunday Supper Special can be split amongst 2 or 3 for the same price
Highlights: rabbit consomme; loup de mer for two; 2 for 1 Dale's Pale Ale beer can special ($6)
Service: The waitress was nice enough, but service lacked a certain polish
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