Postcard from Madrid

Madrilenos live a charmed life—not only do they get to enjoy my favorite Spanish tradition, the splendid afternoon siesta, but the best restaurants in the Spanish capital rival those of Manhattan. From a simple rustic tavern to a temple of molecular gastronomy, here are my best bets for your next trip to Madrid:

Posada de la Villa (Cava Baja 9, 011.34.91.2661.860)

If you go before ten in the evening, be prepared to be surrounded by tourists, which made me none too happy. Nonetheless, there is one big reason to go here: the leg of lamb for two. Roasted in a giant brick fireplace on the second floor, this hunk of meat would be a revelation for most Americans who are used to the foul-tasting mutton masquerading as lamb offered at plenty of places in Manhattan. The crispy skin and fork-tender meat pleased me to no end. Dinner for two, 80 euros.

O’Pazo (Reina Mercedes 20, 011.34.91.553.23.33)

If you love fish, then you must visit O’Pazo. Incredibly fresh seafood in a modern space, order the gambas riojas if they have them and be prepared to be blown away by the sweetness of these red shrimp, prepared simply on the grill and seasoned with sea salt and lemon. Also, don’t miss the merluza a la horno (baked hake)—the poor little hake must have been swimming the night before, it was so fresh, and the dish’s perfectly acidic lemon sauce complemented the flaky flesh admirably. Easily my best meal in Madrid and I left with a smile on my face even after seeing the check. Dinner for two, 130 euros.

La Broche (Miguel Angel 29-31, 011.34.91.399.34.27)

In the interest of full disclosure, molecular gastronomy is usually not my thing. I’d rather devour some paella than fiddle with a plate of foams and gêlées (speaking of which, can someone please tell me why you can’t get a good, or even a decent, paella in Madrid? I know its Valencia’s specialty, but come on now, Madrid, you are better than that.) That being said, La Broche represents the best of the molecular gastronomic movement, while still showing restraint and respect for the ingredients. The kitchen sends out clever re-interpretations of traditional Spanish dishes, such as boiled octopus or grilled anchovies, which are both fanciful and, most importantly, tasty. You might not want to eat like this every night, but La Broche pleases both your mind and your taste buds. Dinner for two, 140 euros.